Journey to Middle-Earth: New Zealand isn't just home to hobbits and wizards

15 years ago, the Lord of the Rings film trilogy put New Zealand on the map. Cinema-goers were entranced by the scenery that was the setting for JRR Tolkien’s hobbits and elves. What they didn’t see was the spectacular wildlife that the land is really home to, which takes centre stage in the BBC2 series New Zealand: Earth’s Mythical Islands.

“It was a lost world,” says producer Mark Flowers. “It had been left untouched for 80 million years. So the life that evolved there is very different – very beautiful and strange.”

With snow-capped peaks as well as verdant valleys, New Zealand has astonishing diversity in a land only slightly bigger than the United Kingdom. “You do feel like you’re in a Tolkien film when you’re in the ancient forests with giant trees, but then there are parts that look like a turbo-charged Devon and others that feel like the Caribbean.”

Since Flowers has got to know the country so well, we asked him to take us on his dream tour.

North Island

“I would begin with a ferry from Auckland harbour to the volcanic island of Rangitoto. The last lava flowed there more than 500 years ago, but it’s still black and barren, so it feels really otherworldly. You can also visit the island wildlife sanctuary Tiritiri Matangi, where it’s easy to see rare birds, including saddlebacks, kokakos and tui. Kokakos are famous for having one of the most beautiful songs in the world. They belong to a family called wattlebirds that can sing two notes at the same time, so they almost sound like a musical instrument. If you want to hear the breathtaking dawn chorus, book a bed in the island’s bunkhouse, through the Department of Conservation.

“Waipoua Forest is in the far north, and it’s the best place to see giant kauri trees and get a taste of what wild New Zealand was once like. They are absolutely amazing, and underneath is this fantastic forest of colourful ferns. Raised walkways allow you to get out into the wild and swampy areas without damaging the forest floor.

Named after its constant fizzing of carbon dioxide bubbles reminiscent of champagne, Champagne Pool is one of New Zealand's most iconic geothermal features. Pictured above: Kea are the only true alpine parrots in the world and thrive in the Southern Alps

“Then I would go south to the belching landscape of Rotorua, which is touristy but good fun. The town sits on a long-dormant volcano, so it’s home to bubbling mudpools, shooting geysers and hot springs. Its nickname is Sulphur City because it stinks of rotten eggs!

“Scientists believe the geo-thermal conditions are close to what it was like when life first began on Earth. There are beautiful crystalline terraces and weird algae gardens that can be green, red and yellow. And because there aren’t many predators, unusual insects live there in great numbers, which attract birds. One of the most magical wildlife sequences we shot was of a tiny bird called a fantail hawking for midges that hatch in the hot streams.

“The glowworms, too, are amazing. We filmed them in a forest on South Island, but the most accessible are in Waitomo Caves in the west of North Island. It’s like seeing fairies or looking up at the stars – except they’re all alive.”

South Island

“The ferry crossing between North and South Island can be rough, but it’s very beautiful and you can spot whales and dolphins. One of the best places in the world to see sperm whales is Kaikoura, on the east coast. You’re also almost guaranteed to see dusky dolphins, which feed at night and play all day so they’re entertaining to watch – marine biologists think they might communicate when they jump. New Zealand is one of the capitals for albatrosses and albatross relations, so you get to see amazing seabirds too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okN83sIVxsc

“If you want to see blue penguins, there’s a really good colony in Oamaru, also on the east coast. They’re the smallest species of penguin – about 25cm/10in high – and they come ashore every night. The local government is good at managing both conservation and access, so you can get within a few feet.

“150 miles west, Lake Wanaka is staggeringly beautiful because it’s a brilliant blue and has the snow-capped Southern Alps in the background. If you want to walk or ski in the mountains, the easiest access is from Queenstown.

Milford Sound is one of the wettest places on Earth with rainfall creating cascades of waterfalls, some reaching a thousand metres in length

“For the finale, I’d stay in Te Anau, south west of Queenstown, which is another beautiful lakeside town. From there, you can go on a day trip to the giant fjord of Milford Sound, whose physical majesty is one of the wonders of the world. Sailing there, you feel Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture should be playing.